Hello again, folks. We here at SITC (a.k.a. me, your intrepid guide and gastro-nerd) are continuing our exploration of the Czech capital one Makový koláček at a time. For the next couple of posts we will be focusing on Prague’s thriving café culture, exploring some of the most popular and delightful spots in which to marvel at Marlenka and bask in the perfect brew. Bottoms up! ☕
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Café Louvre (Národní 22)
Possibly my favourite café in Prague, any establishment that can boast a clientele that included Einstein and leaves pencils and paper on the tables for diners to record their thoughts is alright by me (and by thoughts I mean profound ideas that shape literature and inspire nations, not games of Hangman or doodles of man bits and mammaries). Yes, it’s noisy and the first thing you encounter on ascending the stairs is a gift shop, but there is a jovial atmosphere and the food is plentiful and of good quality. It also helps that the waiters don’t all look like they wish you’d flush yourself down the nearest toilet rather than talk to them. For the Czech Republic that is high praise indeedChicken in Peppercorn Sauce with home-made Spätzle 219 czk – A perfectly cooked breast of chicken with a pasta/noodle/dumpling/gnocchi ball, just in case you were planning to climb Everest and needed to stock up on a month’s worth of carbsLarge Beef Goulash with Carlsbad Dumplings 229 czk – Tender chunks of beef marinating in a thick beef broth. The combination of the dumplings and the broth is magnificent. Without doubt my favourite meal to eat whilst in Prague. One day I hope to demolish all of those dumplings as currently my record stands at four and a half before hitting a starch wall. Some dreams just can’t be realisedApple Strudel 79 czk – An adequate dessert lacking the currants and cinnamon to make it truly memorableMini Dessert Plate 149 czk – Tastes just as good as it looksFresh Orange Juice with Strawberries 71 czk – One glass is never enough. The kiwi and banana option is also wonderful
Cafe at the Museuem of Alchemists & Magicians (Jánský vršek 8)
Just across the courtyard from the Museum of Crackpots Alchemists, this is as close as you’re likely to come to finding a real-life replica of the potions classroom from Hogwarts
Kaldi (Vyšehradská 429/37)
A lovely slice of spinach quiche and the kind of smooth, milky Cappuccino that could turn a dedicated teaholic over to the dark side
Leli’s Cupcakes (Vyšehradská 1446/53)
Fruit tea 45 czk – Offering a lovely collection of reasonably priced cupcakes, I’m afraid I was only able to sigh and gaze longingly through the glass as there simply wasn’t enough room in my stomach for more treats. The café also has a great selection of toys for your munchkins to play with, making this that most frightening of places for the lone epicurean to visit: a family friendly hang-out (shudder)
Globe Bookstore & Café (Pštrossova 1925/6)
Mexican Coffee with Kahlua 85 czk – The first English language bookshop established in Prague in 1993, you can overfill your hand luggage with Umberto Eco books (if you’re in Prague and decide to purchase Eco’s ‘The Prague Cemetery’ to suit your location be warned that almost none of it actually takes place in Prague. Instead, treat yourself to ‘Me, Myself and Prague’ by Rachael Weiss. All the Prague you can shake a Trdelník at. You’re welcome), use their free wi-fi, play a board game (they have ‘Countdown’, though no ten-foot clock or Suzie Dent in Dictionary Corner, so good luck with that), charge your various electrical devices and kick back in the characterful if draughty café for a cocktail or liqueur coffee. How good is the coffee with Kahlúa? I didn’t even bother to sip it to make it last longer. I downed it within two minutes and immediately ordered another
Café Montmartre (Řetězová 7)
Hot Pear Juice 49 czk / Stuffed Rolls 38 czk per portion – Favoured by bohemians and students trying to make a pint of beer last an entire semester, this cosy nook just off the tourist trail is warm and inviting with rustic interiors and a lovely ambience. I recommend a small salami roll to nibble on and a mug of piping hot pear juice (or two mugs. Or three, even. We’re on tour, folks! Do you think Keith Richards counts how many drinks he’s had when the Stones are wheeled out on tour? ‘Course not. You don’t get to looking like an empty walnut shell through moderation. Line ’em up and glug ’em down!)
Cafe Ebel (Řetězová 9)
Ginger Tea & Chocolates 115 czk – Despite appearances I haven’t been served a cup of hot water. The ginger is hidden inside the pot. A cramped, rather echoey place with a number of marks and cracks defacing the mismatched crockery, Cafe Ebel is too cold and lacking in atmosphere for my taste, but the collection of cakes look nice and the pistachio truffles are a real treat
Pauseteria (U Radnice 11/4)
English Breakfast Tea 89 czk – A trendy coffee shop just off Old Town Square, it is best to order a fruit tea or a drink that doesn’t come with too many different components. Waiting nearly ten minutes for a jug of milk when there are three baristas kicking their heels before closing time makes me want to claim back the 5 czk I left as a tip when they forgot to give me my change
Kavarna Lucerna (Vodickova 36)
Green Tea with Citron Tart 109 ckz – With views overlooking a man riding an upside down horse (a statue, obviously. In real life his bottom would be shoved against the horse’s… well, let’s not linger on that image too long), this classy café forms part of the glorious Kino cinema and is adorned with monochrome photos of Czech actors and actresses I’ve never heard of. The perfect place for caking-loving cinephile teaholics everywhere
Rainbow’s End Café & Art Garden (Mostecká 14)
Ham & Cheese Quesadilla 119 czk / Caramel Walnut Pie 99 czk – Located just down from the Charles Bridge, this easy-to-miss gem is a hidden oasis right in the heart of the city. Wander down the enclosed alleyway and you are greeted by a gorgeous courtyard and lured in with the promise of cakes and tea and soupy substances. I opted for a lovely Quesadilla oozing gooey melted cheese (though a blob of guacamole would have elevated this from good to knockout status) and a mighty fine slice of caramel walnut pie, a dessert so good that I came back for seconds a few days later. A wonderful, wonderful place
That’s all for this week, folks. Be sure to pop back soon for more Prague food porn as we continue to devour our way across the capital. Till next time xx
All prices/information correct as of October 2019
Feel free to share stories, views and tips in the comments section below. Always fun to hear from fellow teaholics xx
Comedic novelist, committed bibliophile, afternoon tea blogger, walking personality disorder. Spoiling a good view since 1987 and other mental meanderings.
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